Producer: Valentin Bianchi
Wine: Valentin Malbec
Vintage: 2004
Appellation: Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Cheap and Good
Price: $8
Ever wondered what a gaucho drinks out of their bota bag while riding their pony on the Patagonia pampas down Argentina way? It might be water, could be Gatorade, perhaps Diet Coke, possibly some kind of fu-fu latte, or, as I’m inclined to believe, a macho Malbec. And, if they’re a little short of dinero, they might be drinking this Valentin Malbec. Much of Argentina’s wine heritage can be traced to the Italian immigrants that have flocked to the South American country in the last two centuries. Valentin Bianchi arrived in Argentina in 1910 and worked towards his dream to own vineyards and make wine. He started down that path in 1928 in Mendoza and it continues today under the following Bianchi generations. This 2004 Malbec is a great deal. It’s a medium-bodied red with ripe fruit and good balance. Its central theme is plum and raspberry fruit, both in aromas and flavors. There are also soft floral flavors, some pepper, and then a creamy toffee and butterscotch finish that is silky and smooth. A good food wine with good acidity for balance. Hey, this wine is a good deal. Fill up the bota and ride, “Giddyup.”
Wine Review - Los Cardos Malbec 2004
Los Cardos Malbec 2004Producer: Vi�a Do�a Paula
Wine: Los Cardos Malbec
Vintage: 2004
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza—Luj�n de Cuyo
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Cheap and Good
Price: $8
As an afterthought, Malbec in France is a plebian grape thrown into the vat with the patrician Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot grapes that make fine Bordeaux wine. In Argentina, Malbec crosses the class barrier and takes on noble qualities that can elevate this grape into a sometimes sophisticated, sometimes rowdy varietal with depth, complexity, and richness. The name, “Los Cardos,” means “The Thistle.” I usually associate thistles as an ugly weedy plant with prickly leaves. (Think artichokes.) Apparently in Argentina they find beauty in their thistles. The Do�a Paula winery has called this wine brand, Los Cardos, and uses a thistle with a flower on top to symbolize the beauty of the region and their vineyards. In truth, the thistle on their label is much more attractive than an artichoke so I won’t quibble too much. At 1000 meters elevation, the Luj�n de Cuyo wine region is up in nosebleed terroir. However, this elevation with its warm daytime temperatures and cooling breezes off the Andean slopes is just right for Malbec grapes. The ’04 Los Cardos Malbec presents a complex, albeit occasionally awkward impression that gives one something to think about, and something more than one expects at this price. It has a lovely dark ruby color that goes with its rich bouquet of vibrant plums and blackberry fruit. There are also elements of herbs, allspice, pepper, vanilla, and earthy edges. I kept thinking these edges were the thistles intruding, not that that’s a bad thing. The complex aromas are matched by lush and intense dark plum and cherry fruit backed by toasted oak, herbs, spices, mocha, and subtle oak. The rich liquid is held together nicely with firm but balanced tannins and it evolves into a finish of cherry pits and mint. Odd, but quite appealing. Great value and goes exceptionally well with hearty pastas and grilled meats. The wine might hold for a couple of years and do well but is ready as is.
Wine Review - Trumpeter, Mendoza, Malbec 2004
Producer: Bodega La Rural
Wine: Trumpeter Malbec
Vintage: 2004
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Tupungato Valley, Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Good and Cheap
Price: $10
Some of the best value propositions in wine are those from Argentina, especially in recent years when the quality leaped like a frog at the Calaveras Frog Jumping Contest. There are a lot of Argentineans with Italian heritage and many have winemaking in their family blood. The Rutini family of Bodega La Rural has been making wine in Argentina since 1885 when Don Felipe Rutini left his father’s vineyard in Italy and brought his family’s tradition with him. Grapes for their Malbec are from their Tupungato Valley vineyard, Argentina’s equivalent to Napa Valley. Fortunately, vintners from Argentina’s Napa Valley don’t stick the same price tags on their bottles. The Trumpeter 2004 is a big, ripe, chewy red and a little thick on the tongue. But it has complexity, balance, soft tannins and concentrated stone fruit flavors. It’s a sturdy wine that is not unsubtle in announcing its presence. Delicious now and should improve in 2-3 years. It should go well with hearty foods as well as a gaucho on the spit. (08/26/05)
Wine Review - Altos Las Hormigas, Malbec 2003
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2003
Producer: Altos Las Hormigas
Wine: Malbec
Vintage: 2003
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: A-
Designation: Excellent Value
Price: $12
This is the only ant that I ever welcome into my home. Las Hormigas (The Ants) Malbec is made by a bunch of expatriate Italian winemakers from Tuscany that started their Altos winery in Mendoza, Argentina back in 1995. I know people who know this little group of winemaker renegades and they describe them as amicably nuts.
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This makes sense when you think about it. You have a bunch of Italians making wine in Argentina with a grape whose origin is in France. Sounds nuts, eh? Ahh . . . but the wine is anything but that. A bottle of Las Hormigas makes a great introduction for people unfamiliar with Argentina’s Malbec wine. You can detect the Italian winemaking influence and talent in the Malbec’s berries, plums, and chocolate. It has a nice structure from the dark ruby color and concentrated fruit to the warm lingering finish and soft tannins. The Las Hormigas is not as big and full-bodied as many other Malbecs and makes a great food companion. �Salud! (07/22/05)
Wine Review - Don Miguel Gascon, Mendoza, Malbec 2003
Producer: Don Miguel Gasc�n
Wine: Malbec
Vintage: 2003
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Primary Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+/A-
Designation: Must Drink
Price: $12
Malbec is one of the six varietals officially approved for blending Bordeaux. However, after the phylloxera plague in 1863 wiped out nearly half the vineyards in France, the grape is rarely seen in Bordeaux (the Cahors region in Southwest France is the only region that still concentrates on Malbec). Fortunately, Malbec was transplanted to Argentina prior to phylloxera,
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