Monday, July 14, 2008

Square Deal Wine Company
2321 NW Thurman St
Phone: 503-226-9463
Fax: 503-497-9463


Cheese shop located inside. Dan Beekley.


Storyteller Wine Company

We sell great wines that have a story to tell. Drop by the store Fridays from 4-9PM and Saturdays from 10-7PM to buy, taste and talk wine. The rest of the week we're scouring the planet looking for interesting wines that we can offer you at more-than-interesting prices through our newsletter. And we ship. Just think of us as your wine clubhouse, but without any hard-to-remember secret handshake.

Storyteller Wine Co.
5511-B SW Hood Avenue
Portland, OR 97239
Portland Oregon Wine Company
P: 503.206.7029
F: 503.206.7032
T/F: 1.800.753.2531


Cork

corkwineshop.com
Owner Darryl Joannides refuses to sell anything he hasn't tasted personally. His shop features scores of selections from small-producing wineries, the best deals hailing from lesser-known regions of Spain and Italy. Check out Darryl's wall of Spanish reds from Jumilla and Toro for some amazing bargains. (2901 NE Alberta St., 281-2675)

E&R Wine Shop

Ed Paladino and Richard Elden are the proprietors of this cozy, eponymous Southwest wine shop. Though Italian wines are E&R's special niche, Paladino makes an insane (i.e., incredibly full) trip to France the beginning of each year. And Elden is the shop's Oregon wine expert. (6141 SW Macadam Ave., 246-6101)

In just a few years, E&R has rocketed to the top ranks of Portland wine shops. Bookish Ed Paladino and bearish Richard Elden pack a one-two punch as the shop's owners, and their passion for the business is everywhere, from their well-chosen and surprisingly deep choices from around the world--especially Italy--to their idiosyncratic opinion- and info-packed newsletter and a host of other innovative marketing ideas. E&R is Portland's place to beat.

Best gimmick: The Critical List, a selection of wines you may return for a credit of half the retail cost if you don't care for them, for whatever reason, no questions asked.

Every Day Wine

A cozy bottle shop and wine bar, with any of the store's 400 selections available by the glass. Friendly owner Beth Boston worked for Oregon vintner Sokol Blosser before nabbing the keys to this neighborhood haunt in 2003. Patrons can bring their own food, and in true Alberta Street fashion, dogs are welcome. (1520 NE Alberta St., 331-7119)

Great Wine Buys
greatwinebuys.com
Features 12 wines each month for less than $10, with free tastings Friday nights and Saturday afternoons. The owner is a young bicycle enthusiast, so it's no surprise the place draws a youthful crowd. (1515 NE Broadway, 287-2897)

Around 2000, John Kennedy and Dawn Bolgioni took over this Northeast Portland stalwart. At the time, perhaps the youngest wine shop owners in Portland, they're attracting a more youthful clientele in addition to neighborhood regulars. The front of the shop is stocked with a broad array of West Coast wines, but intrepid shoppers will venture back to where Kennedy's real passion lies, in the smaller Southern France, Spain, and Italy sections.

Parlez-vous du vin? Kennedy abandoned a quest for a French literature Ph.D to take over Great Wine Buys, and many of his witty wine notes--the best-written in the city--show it.


Liner & Elsen
www.linerandelsen.com
This Portland standby has an impressive inventory, ranging from dirt cheap to sky-high—and everything in between. (2222 NW Quimby St., 241-WINE)

No one envied Bob Scherb the challenge of filling the shoes of wine retail pioneers Bob Liner and Matt Elsen (who now comprise Galaxy Wine wholesale distributors) but he's made the shop his own. After a much-needed move to a larger space on NW Quimby, the shop is newly focused and amazingly deep. From great buys under $10 to stratospheric premier cru Burgundies, the shop has well-chosen candidates in every category, and it's an especially great resource for Alsatian and German/Austrian whites.

Top of the line: In the Portland market, Liner & Elsen's assortment of top-flight, first-growth Bordeaux is unrivaled.


McGinn's Russell Street Wine Merchants
www.mcginns.us
Down the hill from busy Mississippi, this shop's "Altar to the Broke" showcases a revolving selection of about 30 wines priced at less than $10. Although owner Jerry McGinn's preferences slant heavily toward the Old World, there are plenty of well-priced American, Australian and South American bottles. Tastings are held on Thursdays at 5:30 for $8, all day Saturday, or whenever Jerry feels like cracking open a bottle. (807 N Russell St., 280-2845)

Oregon Wines on Broadway
www.oregonwinesonbroadway.com
The best place to sample fine Oregon wines by the glass. (515 SW Broadway, 228-4655)

Oregon Wines on Broadway is almost exactly as advertised: a great inventory of Oregon wines-- with a judicious number of Washington reds thrown in under the radar. With high ceilings and lots of glass fronting onto tiny Morgan's Alley, the atmosphere is both elegant and informal, catering to tourists, business people, and a coterie of regulars.

Try before you buy: The shop's remarkable cruvinet offers 30 Oregon Pinot Noirs and six "full-bodied reds" by taste or glass.

Portland Wine Merchants
www.portlandwinemerchants.com
Roy Olson has been helping Hawthorne imbibe since 1993, and he claims to sell more Portuguese wine than anyone on the West Coast. There's almost always something cheap and unusual on offer here. (1430 SE 35th Ave., 234-4399)

This comfortable shop just off Hawthorne is like the Island of the Lost Toys of Wine. Besides a fine selection of wines from around the world, PWM specializes in odd, unusual, or forgotten bottlings at amazing price points. It makes the shop a great place to be adventurous: they won't all be Châteaux Margaux, but even if you've never heard of them, the pricing makes it easy to experiment and put wine on your table every day.

Trade secret: Some shops buy special barrels direct from producers and pass some of the savings to consumers, but PWM has raised this practice to an art form, bottling some fine producers under its own label at reasonable prices.


Square Deal Wine Company

Dan Beekley directly imports hundreds of wines, primarily from Europe, and with the majority priced between $12 and $16, Square Deal lives up to its name. (2321 NW Thurman St., 226-9463)

Vino

Bruce Bauer's shop is the Sellwood neighborhood's best, with loads of deals from Spain, France and Italy. Bruce holds drop-in tastings for 10 bucks on Friday nights and free all day Saturday. (1226 SE Lexington St., 235-8545)

Vinopolis

A labyrinth of wine that's confusing to navigate but has a selection that's tough to beat. (1025 SW Washington St., 223-6002)

Woodstock Wine & Deli
4030 SE Woodstock Boulevard, 503-777-2208
10am-7pm Monday-Saturday, 10am-10pm Friday
www.woodstockwineanddeli.com

This Eastmoreland-area deli and wine shop has built a devoted following, most notably among Oregon winemakers--the store's wine steward says 60% of his extensive Oregon inventory comes direct from the wineries themselves. The shop boasts a fine international assortment, too. Ask about cellared wines: after 16 years in business, they've accumulated quite a collection.

Fee free: You can buy a bottle of wine without paying a corkage fee and enjoy it with deli fare in the spacious seating area.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

2004 Guenoc Chardonnay

2004 Guenoc Chardonnay




Stone-fruit, pears, hints of butter and vanilla, plump and full in the mouth with a long clean finish. Our 2004 California Chardonnay was cold fermented in refrigerated stainless steel tanks with approximately 20% aged in a combination of American and French oak barrels.

2004 Guenoc Chardonnay, Calif., about $12. Not bad for a $12 mass-produced bottle. The flavor profile is standard-issue -- pears, apples and maybe mango, kissed with vanilla -- but I kept going back to the glass for another sip, which counts for something. And everything is in balance. Think of this as a gentle, mid-afternoon wine that would match up well with fresh fruit and a creamy cheese. I did not know until I checked the Web site but Guenoc is the name of a valley in Lake County, just north of Napa County.

ISay: Good wine.

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Blackstone Monterey County Chardonnay 2005

Blackstone Monterey County Chardonnay 2005




The Wine Enthusiast Rich and vibrant in acid-accented lime, peach, pink grapefruit and tangerine flavors, this creamy, smooth Chard is partly barrel fermented, which gives it a toasty, buttery edge. Score: 85. —Steve Heimoff, October 01, 2006.

I say: Don't remember, try again?

Cambria Kathrine's Vineyard Chardonnay 2004

Cambria Kathrine's Vineyard Chardonnay 2004



"A tribute to Cambria's consistent style and character, Katherine's Chardonnay is a lush, well-rounded wine revealing vibrant tropical flavors folded over hints of vanilla and pear. The finish is enduring, made memorable by notes of vanilla and oak spice."
-Fred Holloway, Winemaker

Katherine's Chardonnay is hand-harvested from the 1,405-acre, family-owned Cambria estate. As expected from the consistency of Cambria's fruit, this vintage speaks boldly of Santa Maria Valley's ideal climate and vineyard conditions for growing Chardonnay. Formed from alluvial deposits of the Sisquoc River, Cambria's soil is gravelly and exceptionally well draining—restricting vine vigor to promote the growth of Chardonnay with lush, concentrated flavors. The maritime influences that funnel in from the Pacific Ocean, cloak the Santa Maria Valley in mild temperatures, extending the vineyard's growing season to provide ample time to balance the fruit's acid profile and develop optimal varietal characteristics.

In the vineyard, the development of Katherine's fruit sets the stage for our winemaking process and lays the foundation for flavor and quality. Cambria's vineyard management techniques, such as leaf thinning, allow more sunlight on the clusters for full, even ripening and evolution of concentrated character. In addition, irrigation is minimized to restrict vine vigor and focus the vine's energy on the grapes. Also, underdeveloped fruit is taken off the vines at verasion to promote the growth of densely flavored clusters. Together, these techniques ensure maximum quality in the Chardonnay before beginning the winemaking process.

At harvest, Katherine's Chardonnay grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed to capture the fresh flavors while avoiding any harsh tannins. Primary and secondary fermentation took place in French oak barrels to enhance oak spice integration. To heighten and balance the lush texture in the mid-palate and fruitful flavor profile, the wine was aged sur lies for a period of eight months before bottling.

Customer Reviews:

* "This is a perfect Chardonnay."
A Customer - CT & CA
* "Although I am not a professional chef, I am a wine lover that does catering & cooking demonstrations with wine pairing. I've found the Cambria to be a lite & flavorful chardonnay with slight hints of pear & apple. It pairs well with all fish, chicken & pasta dishes. But don't be affraid to try it with a good steak. "
A Customer - Milford, NH

The Wine Advocate The most interesting of this trio is the 2004 Chardonnay Katherine's Vineyard, which reveals a flamboyant nose of orange blossoms, lemon honey, and wet stones. Tropical fruit characteristics also emerge on the palate. Drink this ripe, medium-bodied white over the next 1-2 years. Score: 90. —Robert Parker, August 2006.

I say: It was good but not memorable.

2005 J. Lohr Arroyo Seco Chardonnay Riverstone 2005

2005 J. Lohr Arroyo Seco Chardonnay Riverstone 2005



VINTAGE
The growing season of 2005 saw a return to more typical Monterey vintage weather – foggy mornings, warm days with temperatures not exceeding 85 degrees, and windswept cool afternoons and evenings. This proved quite a relief to our harvest crew who had been through two consecutive hellish vintages in 2003 and 2004, which finished with heat waves requiring non-stop picking. Heavy winter rains and cool weather in the early spring prompted a March bud break with slow vine growth until late spring. When set appeared in late May, we saw an abundance of baby clusters, but had little idea of the record vintage to come. The anticipated hot spell during harvest never materialized, and instead, ripening came gradually in 2005, which allowed us to pick each vineyard block at its optimum of flavor development and acidity. Harvest began on September 15th and concluded on October 17th. The combination of California Chardonnay clones (numbers 4 and 5) produced final harvest chemistries of 24.4 degrees Brix with 8.3 grams per liter of acid – an ideal balance of ripeness and acidity. The 2005 Riverstone Chardonnay exhibits the best that Monterey has to offer, enticing peach and citrus fruit character, toasty complexity from barrel fermentation, and refreshing acidity.

CHARDONNAY
The 2005 vintage marks the nineteenth year of production of our J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay, from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County. Each year, starting in 1995, we have experimented with and have incorporated higher percentages of traditional Burgundian production techniques into Riverstone, until the desired complexity and end-results were achieved (reaching 60% in 2000). The result is a complex and nuanced Chardonnay with an abundance of Arroyo Seco fruit, with subtle barrel fermentation and malolactic character. The vines are grown primarily on Elder loam soils underlain by "riverstones" deposited over thousands of years from the Arroyo Seco River, allowing a four-foot rooting zone that keeps the vines' vegetative growth and fruit in balance. Additionally, the cool climate and winds of the Salinas Valley extend the growing season and retain the natural grape acids and intense varietal character of the Chardonnay.

TECHNICAL DATA
Origin: Riverstone, Arroyo Seco AVA
Composition: 100% Chardonnay
Harvest Dates: September 15th to October 17th, 2005
Brix at Harvest: 24.4o average
Total Acidity: 0.83 g/100 ml
pH at Bottling: 3.36
Alcohol: 13.95% by volume
Vinification: 100% barrel fermented in combined French and American oak at 55°F to 65°F. Malolactic fermentation in barrel of 60% of the Chardonnay
Maturation: 9 months in combined French and American oak
Barrels from new to third fill.

WINEMAKER'S COMMENTS
The 2005 J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay has an attractive, youthful, brassy yellow color. The fresh aromas of lime zest, nectarine, peach and apple combined with the perfumed vanilla and toasted oak bouquet from the barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and sur lie aging create an elegant Chardonnay from Monterey's Arroyo Seco AVA. The flavors are very clean with peach, nectarine and citrus with subtle butter and vanilla toastiness, producing layers of complexity with an excellent balance of fresh fruit acidity and palate-weight. This wine is ideal for pairing with richly-textured fish and seafood or cream-sauced pasta dishes.
Jeff Meier, vice president of winemaking.

For $10, the J. Lohr Riverstone Estates Chardonnay (Monterey County) is a bargain. We liked it so much we drank a bottle two nights in a row - first with a salmon with a citrus sauce and last night with lemon/olive oil pork chops. My father-in-law, not usually a chardonnay fan, really liked this wine (Mmmmm. Very good, he said). So did the partner in tasting (PIT). So I picked up another bottle at Trader Joe's. I served this wine quite cold and liked it because it was smooth and light-- citrusy/pear in the mouth with a lot of vanilla (Big, big on the oak.) Nothing cloying or overblown about this chardonnay. Why it's called Riverstone? This from the winemaker:

The vines are grown primarily on Elder loam soils underlain by "riverstones" deposited over thousands of years from the Arroyo Seco River, allowing a four-foot rooting zone that keeps the vines¡¯ vegetative growth and fruit in balance. Additionally, the cool climate and winds of the Salinas Valley extend the growing season and retain the natural grape acids and intense varietal character of the Chardonnay.

I say: good. Maybe a couple of bottles.

Argentina - Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec 2004

Argentina - Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec 2004




Tasting Notes: Dark red with hints of violet, intense and appealing in colour, predominant juicy aromas of berries and plum jam, the light oak enhanced into a vanilla, biscuity touch warm smooth balance.

For all you oak lovers, there's one oak-inspired malbec in this lot as well. The 2004 Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec is a super-saver for $9. Plum and cherry notes abound on the nose, but this malbec is more tannic and would suit dry-wine lovers best. The aftertaste does have some tang to it, and although it won't take you to the moon, it's still good enough to be approved by three out of four astronauts.

I say: very good, would buy a couple bottles to keep on hand for meaty dishes

Monday, December 11, 2006

Malbec's - Argentina Wine to look for

Wine Review - Valentin, Mendoza, Malbec 2004



Producer: Valentin Bianchi
Wine: Valentin Malbec
Vintage: 2004
Appellation: Mendoza
Country: Argentina
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Cheap and Good
Price: $8

Ever wondered what a gaucho drinks out of their bota bag while riding their pony on the Patagonia pampas down Argentina way? It might be water, could be Gatorade, perhaps Diet Coke, possibly some kind of fu-fu latte, or, as I’m inclined to believe, a macho Malbec. And, if they’re a little short of dinero, they might be drinking this Valentin Malbec. Much of Argentina’s wine heritage can be traced to the Italian immigrants that have flocked to the South American country in the last two centuries. Valentin Bianchi arrived in Argentina in 1910 and worked towards his dream to own vineyards and make wine. He started down that path in 1928 in Mendoza and it continues today under the following Bianchi generations. This 2004 Malbec is a great deal. It’s a medium-bodied red with ripe fruit and good balance. Its central theme is plum and raspberry fruit, both in aromas and flavors. There are also soft floral flavors, some pepper, and then a creamy toffee and butterscotch finish that is silky and smooth. A good food wine with good acidity for balance. Hey, this wine is a good deal. Fill up the bota and ride, “Giddyup.”
Wine Review - Los Cardos Malbec 2004

Los Cardos Malbec 2004Producer: Vi�a Do�a Paula
Wine: Los Cardos Malbec




Vintage: 2004
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza—Luj�n de Cuyo
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Cheap and Good
Price: $8

As an afterthought, Malbec in France is a plebian grape thrown into the vat with the patrician Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot grapes that make fine Bordeaux wine. In Argentina, Malbec crosses the class barrier and takes on noble qualities that can elevate this grape into a sometimes sophisticated, sometimes rowdy varietal with depth, complexity, and richness. The name, “Los Cardos,” means “The Thistle.” I usually associate thistles as an ugly weedy plant with prickly leaves. (Think artichokes.) Apparently in Argentina they find beauty in their thistles. The Do�a Paula winery has called this wine brand, Los Cardos, and uses a thistle with a flower on top to symbolize the beauty of the region and their vineyards. In truth, the thistle on their label is much more attractive than an artichoke so I won’t quibble too much. At 1000 meters elevation, the Luj�n de Cuyo wine region is up in nosebleed terroir. However, this elevation with its warm daytime temperatures and cooling breezes off the Andean slopes is just right for Malbec grapes. The ’04 Los Cardos Malbec presents a complex, albeit occasionally awkward impression that gives one something to think about, and something more than one expects at this price. It has a lovely dark ruby color that goes with its rich bouquet of vibrant plums and blackberry fruit. There are also elements of herbs, allspice, pepper, vanilla, and earthy edges. I kept thinking these edges were the thistles intruding, not that that’s a bad thing. The complex aromas are matched by lush and intense dark plum and cherry fruit backed by toasted oak, herbs, spices, mocha, and subtle oak. The rich liquid is held together nicely with firm but balanced tannins and it evolves into a finish of cherry pits and mint. Odd, but quite appealing. Great value and goes exceptionally well with hearty pastas and grilled meats. The wine might hold for a couple of years and do well but is ready as is.

Wine Review - Trumpeter, Mendoza, Malbec 2004



Producer: Bodega La Rural
Wine: Trumpeter Malbec
Vintage: 2004
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Tupungato Valley, Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+
Designation: Good and Cheap
Price: $10

Some of the best value propositions in wine are those from Argentina, especially in recent years when the quality leaped like a frog at the Calaveras Frog Jumping Contest. There are a lot of Argentineans with Italian heritage and many have winemaking in their family blood. The Rutini family of Bodega La Rural has been making wine in Argentina since 1885 when Don Felipe Rutini left his father’s vineyard in Italy and brought his family’s tradition with him. Grapes for their Malbec are from their Tupungato Valley vineyard, Argentina’s equivalent to Napa Valley. Fortunately, vintners from Argentina’s Napa Valley don’t stick the same price tags on their bottles. The Trumpeter 2004 is a big, ripe, chewy red and a little thick on the tongue. But it has complexity, balance, soft tannins and concentrated stone fruit flavors. It’s a sturdy wine that is not unsubtle in announcing its presence. Delicious now and should improve in 2-3 years. It should go well with hearty foods as well as a gaucho on the spit. (08/26/05)
Wine Review - Altos Las Hormigas, Malbec 2003

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2003



Producer: Altos Las Hormigas
Wine: Malbec
Vintage: 2003
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Varietal: Malbec
Grade: A-
Designation: Excellent Value
Price: $12

This is the only ant that I ever welcome into my home. Las Hormigas (The Ants) Malbec is made by a bunch of expatriate Italian winemakers from Tuscany that started their Altos winery in Mendoza, Argentina back in 1995. I know people who know this little group of winemaker renegades and they describe them as amicably nuts.

[More:]

This makes sense when you think about it. You have a bunch of Italians making wine in Argentina with a grape whose origin is in France. Sounds nuts, eh? Ahh . . . but the wine is anything but that. A bottle of Las Hormigas makes a great introduction for people unfamiliar with Argentina’s Malbec wine. You can detect the Italian winemaking influence and talent in the Malbec’s berries, plums, and chocolate. It has a nice structure from the dark ruby color and concentrated fruit to the warm lingering finish and soft tannins. The Las Hormigas is not as big and full-bodied as many other Malbecs and makes a great food companion. �Salud! (07/22/05)


Wine Review - Don Miguel Gascon, Mendoza, Malbec 2003



Producer: Don Miguel Gasc�n
Wine: Malbec
Vintage: 2003
Country: Argentina
Appellation: Mendoza
Wine Type: Red
Primary Varietal: Malbec
Grade: B+/A-
Designation: Must Drink
Price: $12

Malbec is one of the six varietals officially approved for blending Bordeaux. However, after the phylloxera plague in 1863 wiped out nearly half the vineyards in France, the grape is rarely seen in Bordeaux (the Cahors region in Southwest France is the only region that still concentrates on Malbec). Fortunately, Malbec was transplanted to Argentina prior to phylloxera,